Argentina

Brief trip into Argentina to explore northern Patagonia and more

Continuing our southern trajectory through South America, we traveled from Cartagena to Buenos Aires (BA) to experience this sprawling city for a few quick nights. Unfortunately, we didn’t have much time; between the time shift and a flight schedule change, we arrived quite late. We stayed in Palermo, an area my research highlighted as the place to be for its walkability and endless food options. That proved true, and we loved wandering the streets to explore the local coffee shops and restaurants.

Though our visit was short, we made it to the heart of the city to explore areas where Eva Perón (Evita) made her mark. She is especially remembered for championing women’s suffrage, playing a key role in securing the right to vote in 1947. We visited the government building where she delivered her famous speeches and explored the iconic Recoleta Cemetery where she is laid to rest. We also squeezed in a few local markets to try essential Argentine eats, like empanadas.

Leaving BA, we headed south into Patagonia. Our first stop was El Chaltén. We flew into El Calafate, rented a car, and began the long trek. Along the way, we picked up a couple of hitchhikers—a first for us! We really enjoyed their company and hearing their adventure stories during the three-hour drive. Hitching makes a lot of sense here, as rental prices are steep and the distances are massive.

El Chaltén is a quaint mountain town at the edge of the northern Patagonia region, famous for the Fitz Roy range. We stayed in a fun glamping resort in a private eco-dome with all meals included that ended up being gourmet and delicious. While the town itself is simple and utilitarian, the domes were a blast and the landscape was beautiful. We spent our days tackling “must-do” treks like Laguna de los Tres and Laguna Torre. These are long, 12-mile hikes that lead up to alpine lakes with massive peaks looming directly above. Because these trails are so popular, you’re often dodging hundreds of other hikers, which keeps the atmosphere lively, but the viewpoints along the way are absolutely worth the effort.

We then drove back to El Calafate for a couple of nights, focusing on a boat tour of Los Glaciares National Park. While this is technically the same park we hiked in earlier, this section is famous for its massive ice fields. We took an all-day tour to see numerous glaciers; it was a long day on the water, but the views of the ice and mountains were incredible.

Throughout our time in Argentina, we encountered foxes, guanacos (the “camel” of the Andes!), sheep, and even choiques (which look just like ostriches or emus!). It’s wild to see such unique wildlife and landscapes. Even in the peak of summer, it isn’t exactly “warm” down here, and having the sun rise at 7:00 AM and set at 9:00 PM in February was a strange adjustment. Argentina has been a beautiful stop with incredibly warm people.